Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Model Specific Discussions about the Sling TSi.
permagray
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Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by permagray »

Inspection plates. There is no real description as to how to assemble them in the documentation. Here is my conjecture:

1 Dimple 6 of the 8 holes on 5 of the 6 plates (the sixth plate is for the elevator and should not be dimpled). For reference of the two holes to leave un-dimpled, get a locking plate and do not dimple the two holes that line up - top to bottom, with the tab.

2 Dimple the 5 locking plates - same holes as above - ensure that the tab offset is to the inside of the wing.

3 Put a M4 Rivnut in the locking plate tab hole - again ensure it is the correct orientation

4 Peel backing from vinyl sheet and attach to the back side (facing the wing) of each plate

5 Trim the vinyl sheet around the plate.

6 Use 3.2 x 8 countersunk rivets to attach plates to locking plate

For Elevator plate -

Drill/ream 6 of 8 holes to 3.2mm on inspection plate. Do not dimple plate or locking plate, but otherwise assemble as above but with 3.2 x 8 domed rivets.

I hope these are the correct steps.
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PhilipRueker
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Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by PhilipRueker »

permagray wrote: Thu Aug 27, 2020 12:04 pm Inspection plates. There is no real description as to how to assemble them in the documentation. Here is my conjecture:

1 Dimple 6 of the 8 holes on 5 of the 6 plates (the sixth plate is for the elevator and should not be dimpled). For reference of the two holes to leave un-dimpled, get a locking plate and do not dimple the two holes that line up - top to bottom, with the tab.

2 Dimple the 5 locking plates - same holes as above - ensure that the tab offset is to the inside of the wing.

3 Put a M4 Rivnut in the locking plate tab hole - again ensure it is the correct orientation

4 Peel backing from vinyl sheet and attach to the back side (facing the wing) of each plate

5 Trim the vinyl sheet around the plate.

6 Use 3.2 x 8 countersunk rivets to attach plates to locking plate

For Elevator plate -

Drill/ream 6 of 8 holes to 3.2mm on inspection plate. Do not dimple plate or locking plate, but otherwise assemble as above but with 3.2 x 8 domed rivets.

I hope these are the correct steps.
The picture that the technical team replied in your post shows that all 8 holes should be riveted.

Image
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permagray
Posts: 62
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2019 8:48 pm
Location: Michigan

Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by permagray »

The picture that the technical team replied in your post shows that all 8 holes should be riveted.
Yes, maybe so, but when I received my quickbuild from the factory, they had dimpled one of my five inspection plates and they had only dimpled 6 of the holes. Regardless of their diagrams (often incorrect, btw), it would be more convenient to leave to two holes open to be able to build a tool to open them easily, as otherwise, there is nothing to grip when turning, and suction cups might work when the plane is new, but what about after a year of flying where the tangs on the locking plate have a chance to dig into the aluminum.

#slingsupport ?
Sling Technical Official
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Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by Sling Technical Official »

Good day

The assembly steps for the hatches that you posted are correct and they will be in the updated manuals.
The 2 of the 8 holes should not be riveted for fit pins or a basic tool to rotate the hatch when opening or closing the latch.
sashaa
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Location: Bay Area, CA

Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by sashaa »

Ah guys there's so many "gotchas" on the wings! Here's the ones I remember (probably because they emotionally impacted me the most...):
  • Rear Spar - Rear spar rivets should definitely be done from the outside of the spar, not the inside, or they will clash with the aileron (rivet direction is not clear from the manual).
  • Wing Rib Assembly - The 4.8 mm rivets shown on the Wing Rib 14 Assembly should definitely not be pulled when the manual says to, as otherwise there is no way to attach the rib to the wing.
  • Wing assembly - Manual never specifies it, but once you install the bolts and angle bracket for the fuel tank mount they should get a thin washer and nut pretty much immediately to match with the rest of the bolts/nuts on the main spar.
  • Wing assembly - Not sure how its possible to rivet the skin under Wing Rib 11 Assembly – that bracket they put on there is super in-the-way. We’re going to try doing it with 3.2 x 6 mm rivets and will report back.
  • Wing assembly - Nylon edge protector should be applied around the edge of each rib that contacts the stringer, as there is the chance that cables in the stringer vibrate along the rib edge (they have this in Mojogrip’s build assist videos, but its not specified in the manual).
  • Fuel tank - Applying Loctite 577 thread sealant on the threads of all fuel tank fittings will screw you over once calibration time comes around, as Loctite 577 makes it impossible to remove the threads. Use EZ lubricant instead!
  • Fuel tank - The default Fuel Lever Sender plate that comes with the Fuel Level Sender should be removed and stored somewhere completely different – you will basically not have use for it again as it is replaced with the custom Sling TSi Fuel Level Sender Plate.
  • Fuel tank – WG-CLM-002-X-F-0 came unbent for us (literally just a straight piece of aluminum) and we had to bend it to the correct clamp shape (no mention of this in the manual).
  • Fuel tank – a bunch of the holes in the skin and the ribs were under-sized for us. You have to carefully Dremel them up or drill them up the right size (for the case of the fuel tank skin where it mounts to the wing).
Hope this helps! Will likely contribute more as we go through the tanks...
permagray
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Location: Michigan

Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by permagray »

Elevator

On page E 2.4 of the Empennage 2018/11/15 build manual - Step 6 - it says to use 4.8 x 12mm rivets. Such rivets are not supplied from the factory. The build center in Torrance says to use 4.8 x 15mm instead (RIV-165).

On page E 2.5 of the Empennage 2018/11/15 build manual - Step 11 - The Gusset Channel angled attach point to the outside Elevator Rib 4 uses 3.2 x 8 rivets. NOTE: The instructions omit that you need to attach the Elevator Spar Extension Channel (EL-CHL-006-X-A-1) BEFORE you rivet Elevator Rib 4 to the main channel. There is no mention of attaching the extension channels other than a visual of it attached in Step 16 on page E 2.6.
permagray
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2019 8:48 pm
Location: Michigan

Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by permagray »

On page 12 of the WIP Fuselage Manual, it shows the position of the GMU 11 mounting bracket. In my Quickbuild, my GMU 11 bracket is one more rib forward. The picture on the WIP Fuselage manual page 18 shows the bracket where it is on my Quickbuild. This should be resolved in the manual;
#slingsupport
Sling Technical Official
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Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by Sling Technical Official »

Thank you for the feedback. We will update page 18 with the new position of the GMU 11 bracket.
MTJ
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Location: 1L9

Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by MTJ »

Nose Gear & Powder Coat

I have noticed many builders removing the powder coating on the strut for smooth turning. I asked TAF Technical exactly where and what range of powder coating to remove. Here is the reply...

The nose gear is E-coated. The dimension of the part remain the same once it has gone through this process.

The tube is a tight fit due to the Bushes (Item 11 in your image). It is better to sand out the inner diameter of the bush. Each one is different and so I cannot give you an exact dimension. You will have to remove a little bit at a time.


Grind the bushing but don't remove the powder coating seems to be the answer.
MTJ
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Re: Known building "Gotchas" for the Sling TSi

Post by MTJ »

Fuel Selector Fit

I was having trouble with fitting the fuel selector to the composite piece and here is what TAF had to say about that.

The larger fittings on the fuel selector does interfere with the composite cover between the dashboard and center console.

We have been sanding/filing fillets on the sharp edges of the 90° brass fittings as well as sand a bit of the composite away in that area.




I ground the corners but I heated the composite and pressed in the edges. You can't see it on the front side. There are actually 2 pics.....
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